Collagen
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Application of Growth Factor in Cosmetics
The application of collagen in anti-aging
Collagen widely exists in the body and is an important structural protein of connective tissue. It plays a role in supporting organs and protecting the body and has strong biological activity and biological function. Collagen and its hydrolysate (collagen protein) are similar to human skin collagen in structure and have good compatibility. They can penetrate the deep layer of the skin. They are a kind of very effective cosmetic additives or raw materials with the characteristics of moisturizing, nutrition, anti-aging and wrinkle removal, whitening, repair, and radiation resistance. Nowadays, many cosmetics sold in the market, such as facial maska, eye creams, skin creams and so on, contain collagen. Common collagen proteins include bone collagen and fish collagen.
1) Affinity and nutrition: Collagen and its hydrolysates have strong affinity with protein molecules on the skin and scalp surface, which can enter the deep skin and hair and provide essential nutrients (amino acids) to maintain the stability and integrity of collagen fiber structure.
2) Moisturizing property: collagen contains a lot of natural moisturizing factors such as hydroxyproline, hydroxylysine and glycine, which can improve the water storage capacity of tissue cells and have a good moisturizing effect on the skin.
3) Repairability: Many kinds of collagen polypeptides are related to the growth, division, proliferation, migration and differentiation of skin cells, which can provide nutrients for skin, delay skin aging, and promote skin wound repair.
4) Radiation resistance: Collagen solution also has strong radiation resistance, so it is widely used in the cosmetics industry.
Hydrolyzed collagen in the cosmetics industry
The relative molecular weight of collagen is 300,000D. It is a triple helix structure composed of three peptide chains, which is difficult to be directly absorbed by the skin. Therefore, collagen hydrolysates are generally used in cosmetic applications. Different uses have different requirements on the relative molecular weight of collagen. Generally, the relative molecular mass of collagen hydrolysate used solely as nutritional skin care raw materials in cosmetics is required to be below 2,000D to allow collagen hydrolysate to penetrate the skin, while hair care cosmetics require collagen hydrolysate to have certain film-forming properties in addition to moisture retention, so the relative molecular mass of collagen hydrolysate is generally required to be higher.
Practical use of collagen in cosmetic products
After the enzymatic hydrolysis of collagen, its functional properties change due to the changes in its molecular structure and molecular weight. With the reduction of molecular weight, many hydrophilic groups are exposed outside, their oil absorption is reduced, water absorption is significantly enhanced, and solubility in solvents also has certain changes. Therefore, collagen added in cosmetics can be selected according to different solvents and effects, such as facial mask, lotion, cream, facial cleanser, hair conditioner, etc. In addition, hydrolyzed collagen can accelerate fat burning to achieve the goal of weight loss, so oral hydrolyzed collagen solution can be developed for use in slimming cosmetics. Adding collagen to oily cosmetics requires a low degree of hydrolysis and a high molecular weight of the product. On the contrary, in moisturizing cosmetics, it requires a high degree of hydrolysis and a small molecular weight of the product, which can be well dissolved in polar solvents. In addition, cross-linked collagen is more stable when applied to the facial mask.
Formulation highlights
1) Avoid accumulating multiple collagens in pursuit of multiple functions.
2) Refuse chemically hydrolyzed proteins if large amounts of useless dehydrating salts are not required.
3) Pay attention to antisepsis. Cosmetics containing collagen are a good nutrient medium for the growth of microorganisms.
4) Avoid the reaction between perfume ingredients and collagen. When flavoring creams and lotion containing proteins, such as spices containing active carbonyl groups (such as very active aldehyde groups), they will react with proteins, weakening or invalidating the flavoring effect.
As a leading cosmetic raw material supplier, Creative BioMart provides global customers with high-purity and cost-effective collagens for the development of cosmetic and personal care products. We also have a wide variety of other raw materials that are versatile, such as peptides, growth factors, and botanical extracts, click to view our product catalog. Combining natural raw materials with innovative technologies, Creative BioMart aims to provide customers with superior products and solutions that meet current and future trends in the cosmetic market.
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References
- Avila Rodríguez MI, et al. Collagen: A review on its sources and potential cosmetic applications. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018.
- Geahchan S, et al.Marine Collagen: A Promising Biomaterial for Wound Healing, Skin Anti-Aging, and Bone Regeneration. Mar Drugs. 2022.
