Enzymes

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Application of Enzyme in Cosmetics

Enzymes in cosmetics

Enzymes are proteins or RNA produced by living cells, which have high specificity and catalytic efficiency for their substrates. Enzymes are very important biocatalysts. Due to the role of enzymes, various chemical reactions in biology can also be carried out efficiently and specifically under extremely mild conditions. In the past 20 years, more and more biological agents have been successfully used in cosmetics as efficacy additives, including enzyme additives. In the cosmetics industry, enzymes can be used as preservatives, humectants, whitening agents and other functional additives.

Types of enzymes in cosmetics

There are many kinds of enzymes, but not many can be used in cosmetics and have therapeutic and health effects on the skin. The following are some commonly used cosmetics enzymes:

1) Superoxide dismutase (SOD): The strong oxidation of free radicals can cause cell aging, deformation, and atrophy, and it is related to the production of pigment precipitation. SOD can catalyze the disproportionation reaction of superoxide anion free radicals, thus effectively preventing skin aging and playing the role of freckle removal, wrinkle resistance, and anti-oxidation. In addition, it has the functions of absorbing ultraviolet rays, anti-inflammation, and inhibiting acne.

2) Coenzyme Q10: Coenzyme Q10 is a vitamin-like nutrient, which plays a crucial role in generating cell energy and scavenging free radicals. It can penetrate the skin, stimulate cell activity, improve skin texture, and soften the skin; Promote metabolism, accelerate blood circulation, repair wrinkles, and restore skin elasticity. In cosmetics, the effective concentration of coenzyme Q10 is 0.01%-1.0%.

3) Papain: Papain is a kind of peptide hydrolase extracted from the tropical fruit papaya. The effects of papain are skin rejuvenation and whitening. Papain acts on the cuticle of human skin to promote its decomposition and elimination, so as to promote cell growth and skin rejuvenation. The hydrolysate of papain forms a film of amino acid derivatives on the skin surface to keep it moist and smooth. Papain hydrolysis can directly inhibit the tyrosine activity of melanin formation, and eliminate free radicals, so as to achieve the whitening effect. When developing products, the concentration of papain, application time, and pH of the product should be evaluated.

4) Marine lysozyme: It is an alkaline enzyme that can hydrolyze mucopolysaccharides in pathogenic bacteria. It has good debridement, anti-inflammatory and bactericidal effects; It has an obvious antiseptic effect and is a safe and efficient cosmetic preservative.

5) Pepsin: Pepsin is a peptidase found in gastric juice. It is extracted from the stomach of animals and has good beauty and health care effects. The general dosage is about 1%. It is better not to be used together with collagen and other proteins which are easy to decompose.

6) Chymosin: It is separated from animal gastric juice. It is a good skin softener. The dosage is 0.5-1.5%.

7) Glutathione peroxidase: Glutathione peroxidase can prevent lipid peroxidation under different conditions. Selenium is an essential component of glutathione peroxidase activity. The selenium enzyme cosmetics can treat the skin inflammation caused by lipid peroxide, and have an anti-aging effect.

8) Lipolytic enzyme: Lipolytic enzyme can degrade fats. Lipolysis cosmetics are beneficial to the elimination of acne.

9) Collagenase: Collagenase can be made into special collagenase cosmetics to prevent scar formation.

Practical use of enzymes in cosmetic products

• Enzyme added cream. The enzyme added cream is made by adding a proper amount of camphor, protease, and vitamin E into the cream matrix. It has a good softness effect on dry skin, without irritation to the skin.
• The non-ionic emulsion matrix used in SOD beauty cream is a new kind of skin care cosmetics with high nutrition and efficacy. The clinical experiment shows that the anti-aging effect rate is 90%.
• Q10 is often used in face cream, essence milk and facial mask. It has the effect of anti-wrinkle and whitening.

Formulation highlights

1) Avoid mixing protein derivatives of different sources or manufacturers.

2) Avoid accumulating multiple enzymes in pursuit of multiple functions.

3) Refuse chemically hydrolyzed proteins if large amounts of useless dehydrating salts are not required.

4) Formaldehyde released from donor preservatives can be consumed by condensation with free amino groups of peptides, so avoid the use of HCHO donors in formulations.

5) Avoid mixing with some plant extracts that contain tannins and other polyphenol derivatives (tormentil, rathany, and witch hazel).

As a leading cosmetic raw material supplier, Creative BioMart provides global customers with high-purity and cost-effective enzymes for the development of cosmetic and personal care products. We also have a wide variety of other raw materials that are versatile, such as peptides, collagens, growth factors, and botanical extracts, click to view our product catalog. Combining natural raw materials with innovative technologies, Creative BioMart aims to provide customers with superior products and solutions that meet current and future trends in the cosmetic market.

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References

1. Hojerová, J. Coenzyme Q10--its importance, properties and use in nutrition and cosmetics. Ceska Slov Farm. 2000.
2. Trevisol, T.C.; et al. In vitro effect on the proteolytic activity of papain with proteins of the skin as substrate. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022.