Microplastics in Cosmetics

Overview

Microplastics have been a source of controversy in both industry and society. People typically think of plastic bags and bottles when they think of plastic, but rarely consider microplastics. These tiny particles are too small to be seen with the naked eye and cannot be removed through purification systems, eventually ending up in the ocean where they persist for long periods of time. Sea creatures, such as fish, consume microplastics, which then end up on our dinner plates. The impact of microplastics on the environment and our health is significant.

So how to define microplastics? The United Nations Environment Program (UNEP) defines microplastics as small solid plastic particles with a size of 5 mm or less that are insoluble in water. Particles smaller than 1 mm are considered nanoplastics. These particles are characterized by their insolubility in water and poor biodegradability. Microplastics can be divided into primary and secondary sources. Primary microplastics are particles produced and used intentionally, often in cosmetics. Secondary microplastics are formed by the breakdown of large plastic products that are then released into the environment. The effects of different types of plastic on the environment are not fully understood and vary. That's why it's crucial to properly collect, dispose of, and recycle plastic.

Why are microplastics used in cosmetics?

One of the main uses of microplastics in cosmetics is to provide an abrasive effect. They are commonly found in rinse-off products with exfoliating and cleaning properties, such as scrubs, soaps, toothpaste, face creams, and other similar products. Particles smaller than 60 µm should not be used in cosmetics, and the ideal particle size is between 420 µm. Common plastics used in these products include polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyamide (PA), polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), polystyrene (PS), polyurethane (PUR), and various copolymers.

While microplastics in cosmetics are not the primary source of microplastic pollution in the ocean, they still contribute to the accumulation of these particles and ultimately lead to pollution and damage to the ecosystem. With cosmetics being used every day, it is important for everyone to be aware of this issue.

Microplastics legislation in the EU

In 2015, Cosmetics Europe, the European cosmetics industry association, took the lead in inviting all its member companies to permanently stop using microplastics in cosmetic products by 2020. Back in 2017, ahead of the EU, with the 2018 budget law, n. 205 of 27 December 2017, Italy banned microplastics with application starting from January 1st, 2020, when the ban on the marketing of rinse-off cosmetics with an exfoliating or cleansing action containing microplastics finally came into force.

Meanwhile, strong media pressure in the EU led to the introduction of restrictions on the use of microplastics in several member states, mainly for rinse-off cosmetics with exfoliating or cleaning effects that contain insoluble solid plastic particles smaller than 5mm. As part of the more general strategy for the reduction of plastics in the EU, the European Commission activated ECHA (along with the RAC – committee for risk assessment – and SEAC – committee for socio-economic analysis) to prepare a regulation under REACH regarding the use of microplastic particles added intentionally to any type of product.

ECHA notes that it is not possible to determine if a polymer is a microplastic simply by examining its INCI name. Therefore, even if raw material suppliers provide this information, cosmetic brands must still exercise caution.

Microplastics present in cosmetics may include:

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