Application of Hyaluronic Acid in Cosmetics
Overview of hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan composed of two disaccharides (N-acetylglucosamine and D-glucuronic acid), also known as hyaluronic acid. It is a simple linear polymer, in which a simple disaccharide is repeated thousands of times, resulting in a huge hydrophilic molecule, giving a large amount of water cooperation, and contributing to the swelling and elasticity of healthy skin. HA exists naturally in the human body and participates in a variety of biological processes, such as cell differentiation, embryonic development, inflammation, wound healing, etc. HA has more moisturizing and anti-aging effects than other substances used for skin regeneration, and its moisturizing performance is far higher than glycerin, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and other humectants. Due to its remarkable biomedical and tissue regeneration potential, HA has been widely used as one of the essential ingredients in cosmetics and nutritional cosmetics.
The main role of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics
In the skin care formula, due to its beauty and nutrition functions and its ability to stimulate collagen synthesis by inducing fibroblasts, improve skin hydration and strengthen soft tissues, HA is mainly used as a moisturizing ingredient, anti-wrinkle (especially nasolabial fold) and anti-aging ingredient. The use of cosmetics such as face cream or lotion containing HA will help to moisturize the skin, promote cell regeneration, improve elasticity, and thus reduce the depth of wrinkles; HA helps to absorb moisture, thus keeping skin moisturized and filling wrinkles at the same time; In addition, HA solution is easy to form a film and protect the skin. The sealing properties provided by HA may allow the bioactive substances in cosmetics to persist in the skin layer and penetrate the epidermis more easily. HA can also be used in hair care products to lubricate and eliminate static electricity; Hyaluronic acid, when used in combination with other ingredients, can accelerate the regeneration of epidermal cells and have the effect of healing and repairing damaged skin; According to previous studies, some cosmetics containing HA have been proved to be effective in protecting skin from ultraviolet radiation; In addition, HA can play a role in thickening and stabilizing cosmetics, reducing the greasy feeling of skin care products.
Molecular weight and efficacy of hyaluronic acid
HA has many characteristics, making it superior to other substances used for skin regeneration, and has significant moisturizing and anti-aging effects. The cosmetic and nutritional effects of HA are related to its ability to induce soft tissue enhancement, improve skin hydration, collagen stimulation and rejuvenate the face. Hyaluronic acid itself is a polymer. The n on the molecular formula (C14H21NO11) n represents the polymerization of different amounts of hyaluronic acid molecules. The physiological activity of hyaluronic acid is closely related to its relative molecular weight. In other words, the efficacy of different polymerized hyaluronic acid varies.
1) Low molecular weight HA with n less than 104 has the effect of promoting proliferation, differentiation and scavenging free radicals, which may be the most important in reducing wrinkles, this is because it has a greater ability to penetrate the deep epidermis;
2) Hyaluronic acid polymerization with n between the power of 104-6 can promote angiogenesis and wound healing;
3) The high molecular weight HA with n greater than 106 is easy to form a layer of glycolipid film on the skin surface, which can moisturize, lubricate and inhibit inflammation.
Application of hyaluronic acid in cosmetics
HA can be used in various forms (gel, lotion, facial mask, face cream, eye cream, dermal filler injection, dermal filler, facial filler, etc.). HA is used in cosmetic formulations at a concentration of 0.2 to 1%. The maximum concentration of NaHA in body lotion is 2%. Local preparations containing HA (0.2% w/w hyaluronic acid (NaHA)) as the main component can be used to improve acute and chronic wounds (skin transplant area, postoperative incision, etc.).
On the market, HA in solid state is the most commonly used, which is generally in the form of sodium salt, namely sodium hyaluronate, with two forms: fibrous and powder. The production process of fibrous HA is simple, but it is inconvenient to use. The main problem is that the dissolution time is long, and some require tens of hours. The manufacturing process of powdered HA is complex, but it is easy to dissolve. At present, most of them are powder products. HA in liquid state is the aqueous solution of HA, and the concentration is generally 0.5%~1%. Liquid HA has the advantage of convenient addition and use. In addition, the stability of HA in aqueous solution is higher than that in dry state, and it is not easy to degrade. HA is a polyanionic electrolyte with a large amount of negative charges, which may react with cationic surfactants or preservatives to generate sediment or turbidity. Therefore, HA and cationic emulsifiers or preservatives should not be used at the same time. The types of cosmetics added with HA now include moisturizing cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics, transparent hairdressing lotion, etc.
Precautions for application of hyaluronic acid
1) Hyaluronic acid is a kind of high nutrition polysaccharide, which is easy to be infected with bacteria, so you must pay attention to the sanitation of the container and the environment when using it. After the hyaluronic acid is dissolved into liquid, it should be used up at one time as much as possible. If there is any surplus, the preservative used for this cosmetic must be added, and it should be refrigerated and sealed. The storage time should not be too long.
2) Hyaluronic acid is easy to be damaged by ultraviolet light, easy to decompose at high temperature, and easy to absorb moisture. Therefore, the product should be stored in a dry place away from light and at low temperature. Hyaluronic acid should be added to the product at the later stage of processing, and the temperature should not exceed 60℃.
3) When hyaluronic acid is dissolved with water, soft water or deionized water shall be used as much as possible. The quality of water directly affects the transparency of its aqueous solution. To accelerate the dissolution rate in water, it can be dispersed in propylene glycol or glycerin first, and then dissolved in water.
4)When hyaluronic acid is used in emulsified products, non-ionic or anionic emulsifiers should be selected. Cationic emulsifiers should not be selected, otherwise, the structure of hyaluronic acid will be damaged and turbid precipitation will occur.
As a leading cosmetic raw material supplier, Creative BioMart provides global customers with high-purity and cost-effective hyaluronic acid for the development of cosmetic and personal care products. We also have a wide variety of other raw materials that are versatile, such as collagen, growth factors, and botanical extracts, click to view our product catalog. Combining natural raw materials with innovative technologies, Creative BioMart aims to provide customers with superior products and solutions that meet current and future trends in the cosmetic market.
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References
- Bukhari SNA, et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018.
- Juncan AM, et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules. 2021.
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