Recombinant Peptides

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Application of Peptide in Cosmetics

Basic Characteristics of Peptides in Cosmetics

Peptides are active molecules connected by a series of amino acids with specific sequences. They are protein fragments with biological functions, which widely exist in animals and plants and regulate many biological reactions. Based on its diverse biological activity, low concentration, high efficacy, safety and non-toxic characteristics, peptide raw materials are widely used in medicine, cosmetic, and food industries. Since the 1970s, it has been found that small molecular peptides are easier to break through the skin barrier and reach the substrate for absorption than skin care products added with macromolecules such as nucleic acid or protein due to their small molecular weight, and their special physiological activities can improve a series of skin problems. The sales of polypeptide skin care products have been growing steadily in recent years, and their market potential is greatly favored by China.

Common types of peptides and their skincare effects

1) Neurotransmitter-affecting peptides: The continuous contraction of facial muscles gradually forms fine lines and wrinkles. This process requires that the vesicles release neurotransmitters and bind to the target cell membrane receptors, and neurotransmitter- affecting peptides can affect this process. Therefore, they are often used in anti-wrinkles and anti-aging cosmetics. The widely used neurotransmitter-affecting peptides are acetylhexapeptide-8, acetylhexapeptide-1 and botulinum neurotoxin type A. Acetylhexapeptide-8 can interfere with the release of acetylcholine and reduce facial wrinkles, especially those around the forehead and eyes. In addition to being a neurotransmitter inhibitory peptide, acetylhexapeptide-1 also has the function of promoting collagen synthesis and adipose tissue regeneration.

2) Carrier peptides: Carrier peptides refer to peptides that can transport bioactive molecules into the skin. Widely used carrier peptides include glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, which can be combined with trace elements (Cu, Mn) necessary for cell metabolism and antioxidant, which can promote wound healing, hair growth, and can also play a great role in repairing skin photoaging.

3) Signal peptides: Signal peptides mainly increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix such as collagen, elastin and proteoglycan by reducing the decomposition of collagenase and stimulating the growth of human dermal fibroblasts, so as to tighten the skin, effectively improve the width and length of wrinkles, and thus fight against aging. The widely used signal peptides are palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, hexapeptide-10, etc.

4) Other active peptides: In addition, peptides with the function of whitening and freckle removal, breast enhancement, weight loss and hair growth have gradually become a hot spot. For example, L-Carnosine, nonapeptide-1, nicotinoyl tripeptide-1, etc.

Principles of peptide application in cosmetics

In addition to synthetic peptides, peptide raw materials also include natural peptides obtained from animals, plants and microorganisms through hydrolysis or extraction. At present, among the 80 cosmetic "peptide" raw materials used in China, there are 8 peptides from natural sources, among which oat peptide with certain antioxidant capacity has been used more frequently in washing and skin care products in recent years. Because of its safety, non-toxic, easy absorption and high activity, small molecular peptides have significant effects in solving skin wrinkles, dullness and aging. Peptides that can be used in beauty and skin care cosmetics generally need to have the following characteristics:

1) It has a specific amino acid sequence and molecular weight, and has a single component;

2) The mechanism of action is clear, and it can clearly act on a certain receptor in the cell;

3) The dosage is small. Generally, the added dosage is at mg/kg level, which has obvious effect;

4) The source is simple and easy to obtain. At present, chemical synthesis is the main trend.

Formulation highlights

1) Select appropriate dosage form and protective agent according to product characteristics to avoid inactivation of peptide raw materials;

2) According to different populations, skin conditions and active peptide characteristics, select appropriate use methods, such as external use, injection, oral administration, etc;

3) Avoid using single active peptide, and the interaction of multiple active peptides can play a better role;

4) Avoid blindly pursuing high concentration in skin care products, and select the optimal concentration;

5) Avoid mixing peptide derivatives of different sources or manufacturers;

6) Avoid accumulating multiple proteins in pursuit of multiple functions;

7) Formaldehyde released from donor preservatives can be consumed by condensation with free amino groups of peptides, so avoid the use of HCHO donors in formulations;

8) Avoid mixing with some plant extracts that contain tannins and other polyphenol derivatives (tormentil, rathany, and witch hazel).

As a leading cosmetic raw material supplier, Creative BioMart provides global customers with high-purity and cost-effective peptides for the development of cosmetic and personal care products. We also have a wide variety of other raw materials that are versatile, such as collagen, growth factors, and botanical extracts, click to view our product catalog. Combining natural raw materials with innovative technologies, Creative BioMart aims to provide customers with superior products and solutions that meet current and future trends in the cosmetic market.

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References

1. Skibska A, et al. Signal Peptides - Promising Ingredients in Cosmetics. Curr Protein Pept Sci. 2021.
2. Lupo MP, et al. Cosmeceutical peptides.Dermatol Ther. 2007.